Glorious Tasmania: The Northwest

Glorious Tasmania: The Northwest

We spent a couple weeks in January in one of our favourite spots, Bright, Victoria then back to Melbourne to prepare for our two month sojourn in the island state of Tasmania. On the mainland Tassie is known as the land of two-headed people. I guess that means they are different from their “overseas” relatives. We’ll see about that. We were taking a large ferry-boat across the oft roiling and inhospitable Bass Strait for 9 hours. The day before our trip I supplied our fridge with food for a few days just in case there were no grocery stores there (maybe 2-headed people don’t eat). Then I learned that you can’t take any fresh fruits or veggies into Tasmania as they don’t want any hitchhiking insects to invade their home (it’s bad enough they get humans).  We had a big dinner the night before we left and a breakfast of fruit and more fruit the morning we departed. I’m sure our visiting friends from Oklahoma – Peggy & Don – felt like monkeys the way I was plying them with bananas during the final 24 hours. When we arrived at the ferry, the warden still made me toss a beautiful fruit salad (prepared because I thought maybe peeled fruit smothered in yogurt would pass muster) but an unopened bag of mixed greens was okay.

On February 11th the crossing was perfect…not a cloud in the sky and the heaving seas were kind. At 6pm we arrived in the port of Devonport where we were staying the night. I had thawed a pre-made pasta bake for our dinner (and we had my precious bag of greens!) so we could hold off the search for supplies till the next morning.

Tasmania is 68,332 square kilometres (26,383 square miles) in area. The distance from north to south is about 364 kilometres (226 miles), and from east to west about 306 kilometres (190 miles). It is about the same size as Ireland, Switzerland or the state of West Virginia in the USA. (thanks to the internet for this quote). Given it’s rather diminutive size we figured 2 months would be plenty of time to get a real feel for it. But there is a vast amount of isolated wilderness that is only accessible via 4-wheel drive tracks and one could spend far more time seeing even more than we could attempt. 

We didn’t plan ahead much because, as you should know by now, we prefer to be spontaneous and move when the spirit strikes. This could be an issue since the ferry was booked solid and given it’s summer this is when the sunbirds trek south to the chilly state.  So I had only booked the first night in Devonport and our stay at the popular Cradle Mountain National Park.

Our route the first few days in Tasmania. Melbourne is nearly 400km north.
The town of Penguin on the north coast must be a favorite nesting ground of the fairy penguin.
Stanley is renowned for its “nut”, the view of the plateau when flying over it. We had 2 days of windy, showery weather before we saw this view as we headed out of town toward Cradle Mtn.

 

An unprecedented day of calm on Bass Strait.
One evening we saw a few stray penguins fighting their way from the sea to their burrows across this beach and road.
Stanley’s charming high street is featured in the film Light Between Oceans.
Here is my beautiful savoury veg muffin at Touchwood Cafe. The owner had a peak over my shoulder as I attacked it and claimed it was improperly cooked and I wouldn’t be charged for it. I asked her if we could have another “improperly cooked” one to take away.
I can’t resist sharing this marvelous blueberry muffin (well, the photo anyway)…
And this scone was one of the highlights of scones in my world to-date. (Alert: I did not eat these 3 on my own.)
The Tarkine Forest circuit is an unspoiled, remote region and about as far as we could travel on sealed roads. That’s a Devil on that road sign but they weren’t paying attention to the crossing advise.
The Trowutta Arch is an unusual geologic formation in the midst of a rainforest. It was formed by 2 collapsing caves with one filled with water and the other ferns.
Cradle Mountain is one of many highlights of Tasmania. Often smothered in cloud, this was a lucky day for visitors. The walk around Dove Lake is exceptional and not to be missed.
The echidna has porcupine-like spikes for protection and this one was surprisingly intrepid. They are usually very shy and look to escape human inquisitiveness.
This valley of buttongrass is a favorite hangout of wombats.
The wombat at 1 metre in length is another native marsupial that will quickly disappear beneath the boardwalk that serpentines through this valley.
Many Tasmanian Devils are protected in this sanctuary. They are endangered because of a facial cancer that is contagious among the species. Although their snarl makes them seem quite vicious, they are usually scavengers rather than killers.
At the Cradle Mountain Hotel art gallery my favorite exhibit was the book tree.
On closer inspection the “petals” of the flowers are pages of books.
The steam train at Queenstown makes a daily journey into the forest to share with tourists the otherwise inaccessible rainforest of western Tasmania.
Manpower reverses the direction of the train engine on a turntable.

12 thoughts on “Glorious Tasmania: The Northwest

  1. Great pics! Sounds like you’re enjoying your time in
    Tasmania. We did not visit any of the places you’ve covered so far. Your comment on the quaint village of Stanley is interesting. I just watched that movie, and wondered where it was filmed. Keep up the good commentary, missed your posts! Tonight Mike and I are watching the WI Badgers play the FL Gators in the Sweet Sixteen! We’re hoping they can pull this one off…they’re lookin’ good! We have spent the last two weeks in St. George UT. What a beautiful part of our country! Zion and Bryce Canyon Nat’l Parks awesome! We leave Sunday to spend 5 days with our friends in Las Vegas, and then on to AZ for April.
    Safe travels, we’ll be anxious to read of your next adventures!

  2. What a journey you are having. As it so happens Hilary and Bob are in New Zealand and loving it. Keep the pics etc. coming.

  3. Mary, so good to hear from you again. What a magical island-state Tasmania is! Especially love your critter pictures. Sad to hear about the facial cancer that’s plaguing the Devils. Don and I want to meet you and Joe for lunch at the Touchwood Cafe!

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